Havarti

Why it is renowned

Havarti is made and eaten far beyond Denmark: Wisconsin and Canada produce it in quantity, and it is one of twelve cheeses whose standard is registered in the Codex Alimentarius.¹ Denmark makes about 17,000 tonnes a year, and only 3,000 to 4,000 tonnes of that are eaten at home.¹ In October 2019 the EU registered Havarti as a protected geographical indication after four years of Danish lobbying, over strong opposition from the United States; within the EU the name now belongs to cheese made from Danish milk at approved dairies.¹

The story

The cheese is named after Havartigården near Holte, north of Copenhagen, where the cheesemaker Hanne Nielsen worked in the 19th century; among her cheeses was a caraway Tilsit made for King Christian IX.¹ Danish production of the type, then called Danish Tilsiter, began in 1921, and it took the name Havarti in 1952.¹ Pasteurised milk is set with cultures, and the curd is drained, moulded, pressed and brined.² It is rindless, with small irregular holes, and usually ages for about three months; aged longer, up to a year, it turns firmer and forms small crystals.¹² Castello, one of the Danish dairies that make it, sells it plain, aged and flavoured with dill, jalapeño or herbs.²

What to know it by

• Havarti PGI2019EU protected name: made from Danish milk at approved dairies
• FlødehavartiCream Havarti, made from flash-pasteurised milk and ripened little
• Castello Aged HavartiCastello's aged Havarti, with a crunch of small crystals